On the Edge - Climbing in the Alpilles

Allez Daniel ! Encore deux dégaines et t'y es !

The sun is scorching, the limestone scalding the fingertips. The mind is struggling not to overheat and the legs are riddled with prickling scratches, the shoulders frying.

The index and middle fingers are bleeding. Who knew a single phalanx structure could develop so much strength through training? Countless times locking in chalked tiny holds, these worn precious tools had to compensate too often for weaknesses in the rest of the body - for the not always calibrated sense of unwavering balance yoga should bring. The time is now. The body is what it is, the mind is itself - a monkey mind. In the present there is little choice, the veteran phalanges and the powerful arms go back to work.

Five meters above the last quickdraw, there is no room for hesitation. A single mistake and the fall will only be stopped by the ground 10 meters below. Dammit! I thought safety was always complete on a climbing route. What an idiot. Past a certain level threshold it is assumed that you are either an agile daredevil or very experienced.

Too much training indoors and none on cliffs leads to this kind of frightening realization. The physical capacity to comfortably complete 5.11 routes should mean a near-zero risk of falling on easier sections. Because of this, bolts can be spaced up to six or seven meters apart during simpler parts of the route. If you fall while trying to pass the rope through the quickdraw seven meters above the last bolt, you will descend at least 14 meters in full inertia. Unfortunately, you may not be more than 14 meters above the ground when you fail to pass the rope.

Once the third bolt is passed, you are generally "safe". This is when performance peaks. A fall could mean rope burns, cuts, contusions, or worse, a fracture - maybe even traumatic brain injury, but very rarely irreversible damage. Enough fear to remain 100% alert, enough security to express yourself on the rock. What a rush!

The sling is attached to the anchor. Looking down 35 meters, elation and pride are savored. A village in the distance, olive groves, voices from below, fellow climbers like ants climbing on other routes. Time to let go and enjoy a long descent.